Day 19 & 20: Castrojirez to Frómista to Carrión de Los Condes

It’s been two beautiful but hot days on the Meseta. I’m in Carrión de Los Condes tonight, heading into a scheduled rest day tomorrow. The timing is good, since I’ve got a massive blister on the bottom of my right foot that is being aggravated by continuous walking. I visited the “Farmacia” this morning (pharmacies here offer more services than in the States and are experienced in treating common maladies of peregrinos, especially blisters). It’ll be good to take a day off and let it heal. The challenge will be in forcing myself to take it easy and not go wandering around to explore Iglesias, monasteries and museums.

Life on the Camino isn’t always picturesque photo ops and memorable moments. A lot of times it is blisters, hiking in 90+ degree heat, and overwhelming loneliness. The group of peregrinos that I met way back in Orisson on Day 1 are spread out. Some are many towns ahead, having skipped portions due to a limited travel schedule. Others are several towns behind and are taking their time. Others I run into during midday breaks every day or two. Although I primarily identify as an introvert, I’m questioning that now, as I really miss in person conversations and sharing meals. I guess it’s part of the experience, and I need to remind myself of that.

Ruins of an actual castle high on the Meseta overlooking the town of Castrojirez.
After having hiked up the steep incline back up to the Meseta, I could see Castrojirez below.
The canal and locks coming into Carrión de Los Condes. Most of yesterday’s walk was along the canals. These were built in the 18th century to allow agriculture to flourish.
This was probably the best meal I’ve had on the Camino. In Fromista, the restaurant was called El Chiringuito del Camino. I should have taken a picture before I half demolished it. A grilled veggie platter (after 2+ weeks of meat, potatoes, cheese and bread). It was so good! And, they had American classic rock playing on the radio. Just those little things made me so happy.
This adorable gato kept wandering into the restaurant, meowing loudly for food (the restaurants here are either open-air, or they keep the doors open to keep things cool.) The owner says that this little guy and about half a dozen others show up every night like clockwork to beg for food!
San Martin de Tours del Fromista. A gorgeous example of Romanesque architecture. A contrast after all of the Gothic influences seen earlier on the route.

One response to “Day 19 & 20: Castrojirez to Frómista to Carrión de Los Condes”

  1. Glad you can rest off of that Blister tomorrow. Sending healing. Sal

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