Day 44 through 47: O Cebreiro to Triacastela to Sarria to Portomarin.

The last few days have been through the beautiful Galician countryside. The descent out of O Cebreiro was moderate, but long. It was a steady downhill over 20 kms. After that, it was a lot of smaller ups and downs. Many of these little towns are located on rivers, so the end of the day typically marks a descent into the river valley, and the beginning of the hike the next morning typically involves an ascent out of the valley.

I decided to take a rest day today in a little town called Portomarin. An interesting fact about this town is that in the 1960s the reservoir basin at the river was expanded, which meant that the entire town would’ve been underwater. So the decision was made to relocate some of the infrastructure and some of the historic buildings brick by brick, stone by stone. When the water level on the river and the basin is low, you can still see some vestiges of the town that was.

Santuario de Santa María in O Cebreiro. There was a beautiful pilgrims mass, with a pilgrim blessing afterwards. Since there were people from many different nationalities there, the blessing needed to be read and several different languages. I was privileged to be able to read the blessing in English.
After the blessing, the priest gave us each a rock with a yellow arrow emblazoned on it, symbolizing the Camino.
The morning view out of O Cebreiro is unparalleled.
Many villages have structures that look exactly like this.
Monte San Roque. One of the high points of Galicia, complete with an 8 foot statue of a medieval pilgrim bracing against the wind.
These bold little chickens were looking for food under the cafe tables!
Descent into Triacastela
This chestnut tree is estimated to be 800 years old. It’s a Camino landmark.
A cool little “donativo” oasis and snack stop on the way from Triacastela to Sarria. A bunch of castoff chairs, couches and rugs made a comfy resting spot (of questionable cleanliness). Still, I enjoyed some really delicious homemade granola and yogurt.
The famous 100 km marker! Only 60 ish miles to go!!
The iconic bell on the way into Portomarin.
At the end of a grueling 15 mile walk yesterday, this sight awaited me. The last 500 meters to my hotel seemed to take forever.
Lots of fun little cafes and bars here. I even found the place that I ate at two years ago that had the best spaghetti aglio e olio that I’ve ever had!

One response to “Day 44 through 47: O Cebreiro to Triacastela to Sarria to Portomarin.”

  1. Last 100k!!! Woo hoo!! Great job! Great pictures!

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